October 10, 2005: Life in the Village

I have been so blessed to be able to meet and stay in the village with the family of a Romanian priest now living in America.
City life is similar to city life almost anywhere now in the western world, of course with its own unique Romanian aspects regarding driving, retail goods available, etc., but it is life in the village that reveals the beauty of the land and of the people! To give you some background about the family, vFr. Viktor is a priest in the village, has two sons (Constantin has been acting as my guide showing me the treasures of their land), mother working in Italy (because good paying jobs are hard to find right now), and a daughter with her own family living in central Romania. They, like most in the village, have at least a few acres of land with a garden (cabbage, potatoes, onions, garlic, beans, tomatoes, peppers, corn, wheat, & other staples), fruit trees (plum & apple), grape vines, and animals (chickens, pigs, ducks, and many have a cow or horse).




Almost every family grows & eats this good naturally or organically, because they've never had the means to "modernize" their agricultural methods...ironic isn't it, that their relative "poverty" has spared their land & their health the ravages of modern ag devastation (petrochemical pollution & land overusage) & the poison of manufactured foods (GMOs, etc.).
They use the animals to work the land or for transport, and of course for food. The people are so healthy, strong & don't have many of the physical, mental or psychological health problems we tend to confront in the US, whether it be from the stress/pressures of our pace of life or our diet (things aren't perfect here, they have their share of struggles). All families can food for during the off seasons, trade food stuffs with others in the village to round out their diet, make their own wine, liquers, process their own meets, & juices. My allergies have really subsided since coming here, I've slept better & had more energy than in a long time!
Work days start early and end whenever the job is done or the people feel like calling it quites, because most work on their land. They almost never work on Sundays, out of respect for the Day of the Resurrection, except to feed the animals. This is when families & friends usually get together and even small day trips are made to scenic spots for barbeques or visits to Holy Places. The village is like a family, and because I'm staying at the house of the village priest I've seen this almost every day, at any hour when sometime comes calling with a problem or need the benefactor gives whatever they can. There is much peace amongst the people. They are very humble, warm & sincere, lacking in any guile. Constantin told me, of course we're humble people, because outside invaders have humiliated us over the centuries with wars & devastation. Romanians are very hospitable too! Every house we've gone to or relative we've visited, I've been offered food, drink, shower, &/or a place to stay. One peculiarity about driving in Romania, especially through the countryside, is needing to know the common practice for the rules of the road...for example, they don't have strict guidelines or signals at all intersections (which can be rather hazardous in town) or as regimented traffic laws. I've been able to drive some on our tours, which has been fun (actually reminding me of driving video games growing up), having to dodge horse drawn carts, stopped or slow cars, people & oncoming traffic on the narrow roadways.
I could go on & on with more details, but I think you get the picture and I'm sure that you're weary of reading me ramble on...




I've included some photos from the farm as well as during a recent service at a neighboring village where Bishop Pimen celebrated the Liturgy for the renovation of the village church. They held the Liturgy outside due (which is common for large gatherings) because of the sheer number of people who attend. I was asked into the altar to take photos (& all of the priests were anxious to get copies)...so maybe I have a budding career as a professional photographer in Romania! : )

October 21, 2005: Parting Thoughts on Romania

I thought I'd try to round out my past messages with an overview of their contemporary spiritual situation as reflected in the book Blessed Paisius Velichkovsky: The Man Behind the Philokalia. Because as I read this, it summed up & helped explain what the people are dealing with now...While I'm traveling, I'm reading books about the holy places or people in the history of the country. For example for Romania I took the books on the lives of Paisius Velichkovsky, Elder Cleopa & the Romanian Patericon published by the St Herman's brotherhood. It has helped give me a feel for the spirituality of different periods & some background about the culture/history, etc. I especially have tried to read about certain people/places either right before or after visiting that spot. I'll try to include the other books in subsequent e-mails as background for those interested...for the Holy Land & surrounding areas I'm taking the Pilgrim's Guide to the Holy Land (published by Holy Nativity Convent of Boston) & The Desert a City by Chitty (about the history of the early desert ascetics in the region). So without much further ado, as quoted from the life of Paisius Velichkovsky based on witnesses who have lived under the former Romanian Communist yoke ( p.251-253):

"Hundreds & hundreds of ascetics, sometimes attaining the sanctity of the great desert saints of ancient times, were nurtured under the grace-filled influence of Paisius Velichkovsky. The Romanian land, Moldavia, was vouchsafed to preserve the remains of this great Elder who never returned to Russia. This territory from of old was a crossroads for various monks traveling from the East, & from Russia, thus being a source of spiritual enlightenment for the local people. Here many large foreign monasteries had their holdings, or metochia; for example, the Sinai Monastery had the 'Sinaia' next to the King's residence. There were many hesychasts. Hesychasm came from Mt Athos, Blessed Paisius being a leading disseminator of it, and it survived until our times, when, being tested by martyrdom it gave a magnificent harvest, so blinding in its spiritual beauty that the contemporary world, deep in the pollution of sin, is not only powerless to see & sense this unearthly beauty, but is already almost a participant in the rapid liquidation of this reflection of Christ. Here is what we have learned, almost as a secret.

In Romania just before our time, there were some 200 desert recluses in the mountains. They lived in caves & would die there in seclusion; only their bones would remain in the caves with signs: 'Here lived the sinful monk so & so,' and the like. To some of these monks people would bring food from monasteries and would leave it somewhere nearby for them to take. But there were some anchorites whom it was impossible to reach, & they existed by themselves without help from outside.

A certain monk was walking with a guide in these mountains. It was a fiercely cold winter. Suddenly this monk sensed an usual fragrance, as if from flowers blooming. He asked his guide: 'What kind of smell can this be in such frost?' And the guide answered as if it were something quite ordinary: 'This is from some relics. Anchorites used to live in the caves all around here.'

When the persecution of the Church began, many young people came to faith, mostly students, & especially many simple workers. All the prisons were filled with monks & nuns. Out of 6-7000 prisoners there were 2500 monastics. Of these some 500 survived--they dressed in lay clothing & hid themselves among the people.

One catholic priest, who was imprisoned together w/Orthodox monks can testify that as a certain Fr. Gerasim was dying in prison, that his face shown with the light of Mt. Tabor. Another protestant pastor relates the following story: Once they brought into the prison cell an Orthodox Elder-priestmonk, so holy & pure in heart that he was like a child; even the Communists couldn't understand why he'd been arrested. They shoved him in, saying as a sarcastic joke, 'He will confess you!' And everybody rushed to him for confession, not only Orthodox, but also heterodox & Jews, & even Communists themselves. The pastor said that he, moved by some unknown power, confessed to him everything, including shameful things which never in his whole life would he admit. But here everything by itself just poured out of him. And the worse were the things he said, the more did the face of the Elder shine with joy, because the soul of the sinner was being cleansed. He was released, & the whole day everybody, even the guards, were as if holy; but this wasn't for long. The next day everything became worse. The prisoners made a tacit agreement w/the guards: the guards would beat them as they pleased, both w/knives & bayonets, & they would not protest; but in exchange the guards would allow them to pray as much as they wanted to. Priests would serve the Divine Liturgy on the chests of the dying (new martyrs) in place of an antimension. Somehow they managed to obtain wine.

Once into the cell where an Archimandrite (high ranking priest) monk they placed a hardened criminal,who was to torture the monk every day in order to get some information from him--such was their system. But when it became apparent that it was impossible to get information from the monk under any condition, then the order came to torture the criminal to death...In the end both were dying, lying together. The torturer bitterly wept & repented. The Archimandrite was consoling & comforting him, saying: 'If I feel so sorry for you, then how much more should Christ have pity on you.' The monk-martyr confessed him & read the prayer of absolution over him. They both received Holy Communion & both died together."

I just found this entire account moving & profound...it seemed to capture the depth of faith & recent history of the people the best...

Holy martyrs of Romania, pray to God for us!
Justin

October 17, 2005: The Feast of Parascheva the New of Iasi

I wanted to send a brief update about the feast of Parascheva the New of Iasi, because of its importance to Romanian Orthodoxy and its impression upon me, before I left Romania (on Wednesday) for the Holy Land...
Since I last wrote, Constantin & I attempted to go visit two other aging holy elders, Fr. Teofil Paraian near Brasov in the mountains and Fr. Arsenie Papaciov near Constant on the Black Sea. Unfortunately though, we were unable to meet with either elder. We didn't make it to Brasov due to changing circumstances in our travel requirements, and when we went to Constant, Fr. Arsenie had recently left (assumably for the feast in Iasi). So after getting to see the Black Sea and venerate the relics at the Cathedral in Constant (Sts. Aston, Epictet, Theodosia & Antipas of Romanis, & St. Panteleimon the Unmercenary Healer), we took a train to Iasi for the feast. This area has much to see & pilgrimage to in its own right (which I would like to do when the weather is warmer), many places where the Apostle Andrew did missionary work including his cave & miraculous spring, because this was his "port of entry" to Romania. Also, the first martyrs of Romania are there. The Danube Delta region, situated just north of Constantza also contains the widest variety of flora & fauna in Europe, especially known for fishing & bird watching. Unfortunately the region was closed due to a bird flu alert. This was our second long train trip that day, the first being @ 3-7am, this second one 3-11pm! It was fun and fascinating to see some of Romania this way and experience their train travel (somewhat different than ours, more traditional use of sitting or sleeping rooms in a car, & not as much like the seat arrangements on a bus). It was quite an experience to pilgrimage to the feast this way. We met & shared stories & food with those in our car, as we bonded like a family, to help each other during the 8 hour trip. The journey was full of many unique experiences and moments...Gypsy singing & dancing in the walkways, trying to sell trinkets or food, even though the cars were oversold with many packed in & standing for the entire trip.

Feast of Parascheva the New of Iasi

This is likely the largest annual pilgrimage in all of Orthodoxy averaging 500,000-1M pilgrims each year at the feast, not counting the half million that live in Iasi. This year they expected more because Metropolitan Panteleimon of Greece brought the relics of the Apostle Paul for veneration by the faithful to feast. Most stood in a line that spanned more than 1-2km an average of 12-15 hours to venerate the relics of St. Parascheva (and this year the Apostle Paul as well). Young and old, rich and poor alike come from all over Romania & neighboring countries (even as far away as America...) for the week long festivities. The entire city takes part in the celebration, with live outdoor folk & religious music concerts, booths selling everything from traditional Romanian handicrafts to religious items and food, churches and monasteries teaming with visiting pilgrims, while all of the special services at the cathedral are broadcast on jumbo-trons to the large crowds throughout the cathedral complex with closed circuit TV.

Almost all of the bishops of Romania attend, including the Patriarch of Romania Teoctiste (seated, with Metropolitan Manteleimon of Greece on left and Metropolitan Daniil on right), all of the Metropolitans, and there are always visiting hierarches.

Presentation of Newly Canonized St. Dosoftei of Probata
This year was also special, because a newly canonized saint (June 2005), Dosoftei of Probata, was announced to the people (see photo with icon)The scene was similar to many large city festivals that I've been to in the past, but the atmosphere was completely different. Frivolous revelry or wantonness was replaced with deep feelings of reverence and a sense of community amongst the faithful. I've never been to services overflowing with people where you get to worship outdoors like in Romania. It is difficult at first to maintain focus on prayer, but pretty soon after realizing that prayer is all around you with the people, it becomes easier to commune in prayer even while standing in the middle of the "outside" world. I felt that it also revealed how real and organic the faith of the Romanian people are that they are able to worship God in "all places". I've included some photos during the main Liturgy the day of Parascheva's feast from both inside & outside the cathedral (thanks to a theological student I met while in Iasi). Attending the feast was a wonderful way to conclude my pilgrimage in Romania, going to the cathedral everyday, taking part with the people on one of their most important holy days (for Parascheva is considered the patron & protector of Moldavia), seeing their faith & piety, and spending time with new friends.
You'll hear from me next with an update from the Holy Land. I appreciate all of your thoughts, encouraging words & prayers!
-Justin

October 10, 2005: Romania's Natural Beauty

Hope you enjoy...I'm so happy to be here at the turning of the leaves!

Village Life
I have been so blessed to be able to meet and stay in the village with the family of a Romanian priest now living in America. City life is similar to city life almost anywhere now in the western world, of course with its own unique Romanian aspects regarding driving, retail goods available, etc., but it is life in the village that reveals the beauty of the land and of the people! To give you some background about the family, Fr. Viktor is a priest in the village, has two sons (Constantin has been acting as my guide showing me the treasures of their land), mother working in Italy (because good paying jobs are hard to find in Romania right now), and a daughter with her own family living in central Romania. They, like most in the village, have at least a few acres of land with a garden (cabbage, potatoes, onions, garlic, beans, tomatoes, peppers, corn, wheat, & other staples), fruit trees (plum & apple), grape vines, and animals (chickens, pigs, ducks, and many have a cow or horse). Almost every family grows & eats this good natural and organic food, because they've never had the means to "modernize" their agricultural methods...ironic isn't it, that their relative "poverty" has spared their land & their health the ravages of modern ag devastation (petrochemical pollution & land overusage) & the poison via manufactured foods (GMO, etc.). They use the animals to work the land or for transport, and of course for food. The people are so healthy, strong & don't have many of the physical, mental or psychological health problems we tend to confront in the US, whether it be from the stress/pressures of our pace of life or our diet (things aren't perfect here, they have their share of struggles). All families can food for during the off seasons, trade food stuffs with others in the village to round out their diet, make their own wine, liquers, process their own meats, & juices. My allergies have really subsided since coming here, I've slept better & had more energy than in a long time!

Work days start early and end whenever the job is done or the people feel like calling it quites, because most work on their land. They almost never work on Sundays, out of respect for the Day of the Resurrection, except to feed the animals. This is when families & friends usually get together and even small day trips are made to scenic spots for barbeques or visits to Holy Places. The village is like a family, and because I'm staying at the house of the village priest I've seen this almost every day, at any hour when sometime comes calling with a problem or need the benefactor gives whatever they can. There is much peace amongst the people. They are very humble, warm & sincere, lacking in any guile. Constantin told me, of course we're humble people, because outside invaders have humiliated us over the centuries with wars & devastation. Romanians are very hospitable too! Every house we've gone to or relative we've visited, I've been offered food, drink, shower, &/or a place to stay. One peculiarity about driving in Romania, especially through the countryside, is needing to know the common practice for the rules of the road...for example, they don't have strict guidelines or signals at all intersections (which can be rather hazardous in town) or as regimented traffic laws. I've been able to drive some on our tours, which has been fun (actually reminding me of driving video games growing up), having to dodge horse drawn carts, stopped for slow cars, people & oncoming traffic on the narrow roadways.

I could go on & on with more details, but I think you get the picture and I'm sure that you're weary of reading my rambling on...I've included some photos from the farm as well as during a recent service at a neighboring village where Bishop Pimen celebrated the Liturgy for the renovation of the village church. They held the Liturgy outside due (which is common for large gatherings) because of the sheer number of people who attend. I was asked into the altar to take photos (& all of the priests were anxious to get copies)...so maybe I have a budding career as a professional photographer in Romania! : )

October 8, 2005: Romania

Well my friends, this update is so packed with sites seen & blessed experiences that I might break it up into two segments...Wow, I'm still dumbstruck (and no that's not dumb blond, all though I'm sure many of you had a good laugh about it... :) with how to begin about Romania. You must come see & experience it before they join the EU in the next 5 years and suffer the same consequences that most of the rest of Europe has, economically, culturally, etc. I have been truly touched by my experience here and would say that it has been life changing, to be cliche'. I have been overwhelmed by the sincerity, generosity, and faith of the people. I have spent the last two weeks in Moldavia, the northeastern state of Romania, bordering Ukraine & the Republic of Moldova. Some have called this land the northern Athos because of the deep faith and piety of the people and sheer number of churches and monasteries. Two of the largest in the world are here, Varatec & Agapia, both with over 400 nuns! This land reminds me of where I grew up, with its simple and natural way of life that my parents and grandparents enjoyed, living off of the land, growing most of their own food or raising animals, where the village was a family. It has been enriching to spend this time with people who are living their faith in their every day life. For example, a simple farmer was telling us the story about how he was so surprised to have run into a large snake in the forest that day (after the feast of the Cross--Sept. 14), when the snakes were supposed to flee & go back into the ground until after winter. There are still struggles here though, against poverty and the lack of jobs, remains of communism, and the new traps of western materialism under the new "freedom". Now, to understand their Orthodoxy, one must understand their history. They are regionally located in the middle of the "Oriental" & "Occidental", roughly between Greece and Russia geographically, and culturally have roots from Rome, Byzantium, and the Slavs. It is the only Orthodox nation using a Latin language. Also, they have a significant Gypsy population that has been assimilated better than in most countries and even ascribe to Orthodoxy. I toured regionally in Moldavia, first to the Bucovina region then to Neamt, so I'll cover the sites regionally/chronologically. I must also apologize in advance for the butchering of any translated names from Romanian into English....

Iasi County
City of Iasi
I arrived in Iasi, the city where the relics of St. Parascheva the New reside, the patron of Moldavia. Her miracle working relics reside in the Metropolitan's cathedral (since 1641) and were given to the ruler Basil Lupu as a gift by the Patriarch of Constantinople for paying Patriarchates annual tribute to the Turks who were occupying much of the old Byzantine Empire at this time. This was my first place to venerate and witness the piety of the Romanian people. The cathedral has a constant stream of pilgrims year round to pray and venerate her relics. We arrived in the middle of a prayer service to the saint and waited at least half an hour in line to venerate her fragrant relics. Besides her holy relics they also had a box containing the relics of several saints available for veneration (Apostles Mark, Philip, Bartholomew & Barnabas; Dionysios the Areopagite; Gregory the Theologian; Athanasios the Great; John the Merciful; Modestos; Epiphanios; Stephen the First Martyr; Great Martyr George; John the New of Suceava; Tryphon; Theodore Stratelates; Haralampos; Tyron; Holy 40 Martyrs of Sebaste; Panteleimon; Artemie; Great Martyr Menas; Antipas the Roman; Varnava; Efthymios; Kyriake; Parascheva (the patron of the Texas womens' monastery); Permagon; the Martyrs of Crete; Martyrs of St. Savvas in Israel; John Cassian; Herman of Alaska; Veil of the Theotokos & Belt of the Theotokos (Mary, Mother of God). We also went to Golia Monastery, in the middle of city, where the men orchestrate the Cultural Missionary Institute "Trinitas" with publishing efforts and a radio station broadcasted across most of Romania. I was fortunate to be able to meet and speak with the abbot Fr. Vitale, one of the elders at the cathedral Fr. Constantine, and run into some friends from Holy Archangels who were also pilgrimaging.

Suceava County (Bucovina Region)
Probota Monastery

Probota (1530) is among the first Moldavian churches that has both an interior and exterior fresco painting (iconography), known as the "painted churches". This is a woman's monastery very close to the family that I stayed with (only 7k). In 1864 the monastery was closed by the Austro-Hungarians and re-opened in 1991, with restoration starting in 1996. It was here that I was first introduced to the unique Romanian church architectural & iconographic program. In the narthex it is common to see a fresco program based on the church calendar with an icon/fresco for each day of the year. I was happy to discover that my patron, the Martyr & Philosopher Justin, was depicted.

Humor Monastery

Of all Moldavia's monasteries and churches, it is Humor that exudes friendliness and tranquil charm with its predominant pink color, reflecting the character of the setting. This monastery, like many in the region, incorporated defensive necessities into the architectural program of the monastery. It has a very large tower with beautiful views of the surrounding area that gave you the feel of the times when it was built and a large defensive wall. This is also a women's monastery since the revolution. (see photo)

Voronet Monastery
This women's monastery, a foundation of Stephen the Great, is very famous for both its interior and especially exterior painting, the latter being executed by the painter Marcu. The blue base color & emphasis is unique among any other Moldavian church, as seen in the fresco of the "Last Judgment". These (and truly sample of any of the "painted churches") could be included among the masterpieces of world arts.












Moldovita Monastery

Famous for the warmth and brilliance of its frescos, this women's monastery is the last of Peter Rares' endowments, situated on the western extremity of his realm with frescos dating from 1532 (interior) and 1537 (exterior). Of the painted churches, I liked this monasteries colors and execution the best, with its use of green.

Sucevita Monastery

This women's monastery was established between 1581-1584 by Metropolitan George Movila, and the fresco/icon program of the interior & exterior reveal the revolution of the Moldavian painting style. It is hailed one of the best examples of the "painted churches" by most rivaling the blue of Voronet. It is situated in a beautiful valley at the beginning of the eastern slopes of the Carpathian mountains.












Putna Monastery
This men's monastery is hailed as the "Jerusalem of the Romanian people". It is one of the most important foundations of Stephen the Great. His tomb and that of his family are located inside the church. The monastery was an outstanding cultural center known for its copyists and miniaturists during the 15th & 16th centuries. They have a very fine collection of filigre work, wood carving, tapestry and illuminated manuscripts in their museum. We received hospitality here, and this is a truly impressive complex. Stephen the Great built a church or monastery for every battle he won defending Moldavia from outside invaders, and his endowments are counted in the 30s...and out of humility it is said that he is buried, not where his tomb is located on the south side of the nave, but directly after the portal into the nave, so that everyone entering would walk on/over his grave. I was struck by his humility considering he was a king!












Sihastria Putnei Monastery
This new & thriving men's monastery is located just a couple of hundred meters from Putna and is built on the historic site of a previous ascetic establishment. We received hospitality here as well and stayed for two days, through their vigil and feast of the Veil of the Theotokos. My guide had heard good things about the Abbott there, so we took the opportunity to meet with him briefly, as well as, spent time getting to know a few of the other fathers. They were most hospitable and warm, and we concluded that this was due to the fact that they weren't on the major "tourist route" like the Putna & the "painted monasteries", used to seeing hundreds of visitors a day. They have a typikon based loosely on the Athonite tradition, but with accomodations in the service times for all of the visitors they have come for the services. They had some very special relics here as well that we venerated : St. Nicholas; local saints Sila, Paisie, & Nathan former hermits of the previous establishment; fragment of the True Cross; John the Baptist; Three Hierarchs Basil the Great, John Chrysostom & Gregory the Theologian; Nectarios of Aegina; Hierarch Ghenadie; Panteleimon; Monk Daniel; Martyrs of St. Savvas; Martyrs of the Sinai & Raithu monasteries; Barbara of Russia; & Anastasia the Greek. This is one of the places that I definitely want to come back to and spend more time. We really enjoyed the spirit amongst the brethren.
Dragomirna Monastery

The main church at this women's monastery is the artistic creation of Anastasie Crimca, a scholar, painter, calligrapher and bishop. It mingles the Byzantine, Gothic & Moldavian styles, is much taller but shorter than any of the other Moldavian churches.


The City of Suceava
We toured through the city, stopping at a few of the old, traditional churches, and at the city cathedral containing the relics of St. John the New of Suceava. The city also boasts the largest of Stephen the Great's castles which was never defeated by outside invaders.












Rasca Monastery
This men's monastery has recently undertaken its major fresco restoration project. This is a major undertaking for them considering that the fresco program took three different painters, with three different styles, to complete over many years resulting in both multiple layers of fresco and conflicting programs existing side by side. This can also be seen in the main church's architecture, because it also underwent several stages of construction. It is considered a treasure for art students/historians though because it chronicles the development of several different prominent styles (Byzantine, Russian & Serbian) during the period of construction (1530-50s). We received wonderful hospitality here as well and I was confronted for the first time by monks eating meat. At this monastery (as well as others in Romania) they allow those doing heavy labor to eat meat, contrary to the church canons. Also, I discovered that often times nuns will reside at the men's monasteries to help with certain duties that either there aren't enough monks or skill to handle (such as care for the guests or guest quarters, etc.) These nuns stay only for a "tour of duty", not permanently, and are considered members of their original monastic communities doing obedience to their abbess, not under the direction/obedience of the men's abbott.

Neamts County
Petro Voda Monastery (Holy Archangels)

We went deeper into the Carpathian mountains to try to see and meet with the renowned Fr. Justin. He is a living martyr (like Fr. George Calciu) being imprisoned for 18 years under the communists, enduring untold difficulties and tortures in prison. He personally knew many new Romanian martyrs of the communist yoke, priests, the educated, theologians, etc. who were all rounded up and thrown in prison to try to pull Christianity up by its roots in Romania. We encountered a scene similar to that in Arizona at St. Anthony's monastery, where the faithful wait hours/days to see Elder Ephraim. Fr. Justin receives on average 100 visitors a day, at least half of which actually get to see him. Many of the demon possessed and mentally ill come here as well for Holy Unction, Exorcism, and the midnight services. We were fortunate enough to have been able to get in to speak with him before he stopped due to sheer exhaustion. He founded this monastery and they have a very beautiful church

but all other accomodations are very humble. We met some very nice monks & students very interested in American Orthodoxy & Fr. Seraphim Rose. They have the relics of four unknown hermits whose relics were uncovered in the region during the founding of the monastery.

Secu Monastery
We only stayed long enough to venerate the relics at this monastery because we spent more time than we planned at Petro Voda. It is a very beautiful and picturesque men's monastery. They have these relics available for veneration: Great Martyr George, Panteleimon, Haralambos, John Chrysostom, Foot of John the Baptist (but it was stolen); Andrew the Apostle; fragment of the Holy Cross; Stephen the first martyr, Marina, Gregory the Decapolite, Apostle Philip; John the New of Suceava; and relics of the 14,000 child martyrs of King Herod.












Theodora de la Sihla Skete

Here too at this men's skete we only stayed to venerate the relics and visit the cave of St. TheodoraWe also met a very kind monk who's the caretaker of a small church above the skete on the cliffs whom we spoke with for awhile. They have the relics of Demetrios the Great Martyr; Theodosia of Palestine; Calinic of Cernica; Modestos; Onuphrios; Tryphon the Martyr; Monk Chesarie of Athos; & Theofil the Russian Fool for Christ.


Sihastria Monastery
This was the home of the great contemporary Romanian elders Cleopa and his elder Paisius. When Elder Cleopa was made abbot, Sihastria was a small skete, but now it has grown into a large monastery or lavra due to the popularity of the elder during his life. We were able to visit their cells
and graves. While praying and contemplating there, we met a woman who said that she was healed from a sickness by the soil from their graves! The spiritual experience here, like at Petro Voda, cannot be put into words. You could feel the holiness or maybe the presence of Elders Cleopa & Paisius there! The small chapel, which houses two very famous Romanian icons in a western style of Christ as Bridegroom (crowned with thorns, holding the reed & wearing the robe of mockery) and the Theotokos weeping & praying at the side of the Cross, amongst other very amazing old original icons from the iconostasis of the Apostles & Prophets. We tried to speak with their disciple Fr. Ioanichie Balan, the man who wrote the book on Elder Cleopa's life, but he's very ill now and wasn't receiving visitors. We did speak at length with one of the older priest monks, Fr. Antim, and had a very profitable conversation and asked for his prayers. This men's monastery is very beautiful & scenic, sitting in a valley between the peaks of the Carpathians, in thick forests. This is also a place I want to make sure to come back to spend more time at.

Neamt Monastery
This men's monastery is famed for being rejuvenated by St. Paisius Velischkovski, the "man behind the Philokalia". His tomb is here, as well as, an impressive museum showing the monastery's spiritual treasures and printing press artifacts. We were able to meet with the Abbot and spend some time talking to him about the state of Orthodoxy and monasticism in particular in Romania. He also told us about an "unknown saint" whose tomb unearthed itself (literally raising to the surface & breaking through the ground) in the middle of the courtyard during the 1980s. This caused a major event because the communists tried to close the monastery and suppress word of the miracle. Because the monks never found the relics of St. Paisius early last century, he thinks that the unknown saint could very well be that of St. Paisius. The monastery also provides a high school seminary education for boys in an adjacent building.

Church of St. John Jacob the Hozevite

This church is dedicated to a monastic saint who reposed 30 years ago in St. Ana monastery in the Hozeva region of Israel, because he was from Neamts. It's an impressive structure for a church, but I mention it due to the quality of the frescos and photos of his incorrupt relics in Hozeva. They have been given a finger of his and are waiting to receive the complete relics for the completed church.













Agapia Monastery
A page of Romanian history, this women's monastery is placed on a wonderful glade, surrounded by peaks covered with fir trees. Romania's greatest painter, Nicolae Grigorescu is the author of the main church interior (1858-61), the most representative creation of neoclassicism in Romania. This monastery has so many nuns that most live around the monastery structure in cottages like a village. This monastery also provides high school seminary for girls, further adding to the size of the community (well over 500 including students). While Elder Cleopa was alive, he helped provide spiritual leadership to this community. They had quite a treasure of reliquary fragments from many saints of Romania, Russia & the Holy Land...so as not to repeat many already listed, I'll only list the new names: Maximus the Greek; Cucsa of Odessa, Jonah Metropolitan of Kiev, Basil of Moscow, Juliana Oshanska, Nicholas of Valaam, Anthony of Rodenezh, George the Hozevite, George of Zadonsk, Lavrentie of Chernigov, Theophil of Kitaev, Ephraim of Periaslav, Ignatius Bishop of Rostov, Marsalie of Divnagorse, Luke of Crimea, Innocent of Moscow, Philaret Met. of Kiev, Simon Bp. of Vladimir & Suzdal, Niphon of Novgorod, Martyrs of Bethlehem, Clement of Rome, Cucsa;; Theodore & Lucian & Vasile of Pecersca, Vladimir Met. of Kiev, Lavrentie Bp. of Turov, Innocent of Herson, Philaret Met. of Moscow, Ignatios of Mariupol, Pitirim of Tambov, Anthony & Ambrose & Anatolie of Optina, Macarios of Kaliazino, Theophan Zavoratul, Theofil Bp. of Novgorod, Alexy of Kiev, Job Pochaev, Antipa of Bacau, Amphilochie of Pochaev, Theodore of Zverinetz, Zosima of Alexandria, & lastly several unknown saints.
Varatec Monastery


This women's monastery, possibly the largest monastic community in the world, was founded under St. Paisius Velichkovsky's guidance of Nun Olympiada in 1785. They are physically organized much like Agapia, as a village of cottages surrounding the main monastery structures. In this type of setting with so many monastics, they follow an organizational system similar to that of the Russian Lavra, where the abbess fulfills more of an administrative role and there are several spiritual mothers or mentors for all of the sisters, each nun under the guidance of one spiritual mother but also the administrative guidance of daily life by the abbess. Priests conduct the services & provide the sacrament of confession. We were able to find a nun I knew from America that would be there, finally meet in person, and discussion Orthodoxy and monasticism in particular in Romania. They also had some wonderful treasures of miracle working icons (as do most of the monasteries although I fail to mention them) and relics: fragment of the True Cross; Apostles Thomas & Simon the Zealot, Mary Magdalene; Great Martyrs George, Menas, & Theordore the Tyro; Haralambos; Longhin the Soldier; Gregory of Nyssa; Onuphrios the Great; & Xenia of Russia.
Well, I put almost all of the last two weeks it into this update...I'll have to finish about life in the village in the next couple of days...Like I said, everyone has been very warm & hospitable, very interested to hear that there's not only Orthodoxy in America, but interest in Romania. More often than not I get very surprised responses from the people I meet that I'm Orthodox (many initially think that I might be apart of another Protestant sect), and get even greater looks of shock & surprise that there is growing monasticism in America! The photos will be sent out under a seperate e-mail when I can get to a high speed connection to upload them...I've taken several hundred photos in just these first two weeks, so it might be a little time before I get them uploaded to ofoto or another photo sharing site...I just haven't had that type of online access, but I can't say that I miss it! I keep you in my thoughts & prayers and try to light candles or leave names for commemoration at every monastery we go to. Please keep me in your prayers. Tonight I head to Bucharest to see a couple of the monasteries outside of the city, then back to Iasi for the feast of St. Parascheva the New on Friday. They expect well over a million pilgrims this year because the Vatican has sent some relics of St. Paul the Apostle for the feast as well. I leave in about 10 days to head onward to the Holy Land & Sinai for hopefully up to a month. If you have any insights into current affairs in the region, they'd be appreciated. I'm going to be checking the US State Dept. website for updates & warnings, but I don't get alot of US news over here....God bless you & keep you!

Stranger in a Wonderful Land