Monday, December 19, 2005

October 10, 2005: Life in the Village

I have been so blessed to be able to meet and stay in the village with the family of a Romanian priest now living in America.
City life is similar to city life almost anywhere now in the western world, of course with its own unique Romanian aspects regarding driving, retail goods available, etc., but it is life in the village that reveals the beauty of the land and of the people! To give you some background about the family, vFr. Viktor is a priest in the village, has two sons (Constantin has been acting as my guide showing me the treasures of their land), mother working in Italy (because good paying jobs are hard to find right now), and a daughter with her own family living in central Romania. They, like most in the village, have at least a few acres of land with a garden (cabbage, potatoes, onions, garlic, beans, tomatoes, peppers, corn, wheat, & other staples), fruit trees (plum & apple), grape vines, and animals (chickens, pigs, ducks, and many have a cow or horse).




Almost every family grows & eats this good naturally or organically, because they've never had the means to "modernize" their agricultural methods...ironic isn't it, that their relative "poverty" has spared their land & their health the ravages of modern ag devastation (petrochemical pollution & land overusage) & the poison of manufactured foods (GMOs, etc.).
They use the animals to work the land or for transport, and of course for food. The people are so healthy, strong & don't have many of the physical, mental or psychological health problems we tend to confront in the US, whether it be from the stress/pressures of our pace of life or our diet (things aren't perfect here, they have their share of struggles). All families can food for during the off seasons, trade food stuffs with others in the village to round out their diet, make their own wine, liquers, process their own meets, & juices. My allergies have really subsided since coming here, I've slept better & had more energy than in a long time!
Work days start early and end whenever the job is done or the people feel like calling it quites, because most work on their land. They almost never work on Sundays, out of respect for the Day of the Resurrection, except to feed the animals. This is when families & friends usually get together and even small day trips are made to scenic spots for barbeques or visits to Holy Places. The village is like a family, and because I'm staying at the house of the village priest I've seen this almost every day, at any hour when sometime comes calling with a problem or need the benefactor gives whatever they can. There is much peace amongst the people. They are very humble, warm & sincere, lacking in any guile. Constantin told me, of course we're humble people, because outside invaders have humiliated us over the centuries with wars & devastation. Romanians are very hospitable too! Every house we've gone to or relative we've visited, I've been offered food, drink, shower, &/or a place to stay. One peculiarity about driving in Romania, especially through the countryside, is needing to know the common practice for the rules of the road...for example, they don't have strict guidelines or signals at all intersections (which can be rather hazardous in town) or as regimented traffic laws. I've been able to drive some on our tours, which has been fun (actually reminding me of driving video games growing up), having to dodge horse drawn carts, stopped or slow cars, people & oncoming traffic on the narrow roadways.
I could go on & on with more details, but I think you get the picture and I'm sure that you're weary of reading me ramble on...




I've included some photos from the farm as well as during a recent service at a neighboring village where Bishop Pimen celebrated the Liturgy for the renovation of the village church. They held the Liturgy outside due (which is common for large gatherings) because of the sheer number of people who attend. I was asked into the altar to take photos (& all of the priests were anxious to get copies)...so maybe I have a budding career as a professional photographer in Romania! : )


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October 21, 2005: Parting Thoughts on Romania

I thought I'd try to round out my past messages with an overview of their contemporary spiritual situation as reflected in the book Blessed Paisius Velichkovsky: The Man Behind the Philokalia. Because as I read this, it summed up & helped explain what the people are dealing with now...While I'm traveling, I'm reading books about the holy places or people in the history of the country. For example for Romania I took the books on the lives of Paisius Velichkovsky, Elder Cleopa & the Romanian Patericon published by the St Herman's brotherhood. It has helped give me a feel for the spirituality of different periods & some background about the culture/history, etc. I especially have tried to read about certain people/places either right before or after visiting that spot. I'll try to include the other books in subsequent e-mails as background for those interested...for the Holy Land & surrounding areas I'm taking the Pilgrim's Guide to the Holy Land (published by Holy Nativity Convent of Boston) & The Desert a City by Chitty (about the history of the early desert ascetics in the region). So without much further ado, as quoted from the life of Paisius Velichkovsky based on witnesses who have lived under the former Romanian Communist yoke ( p.251-253):

"Hundreds & hundreds of ascetics, sometimes attaining the sanctity of the great desert saints of ancient times, were nurtured under the grace-filled influence of Paisius Velichkovsky. The Romanian land, Moldavia, was vouchsafed to preserve the remains of this great Elder who never returned to Russia. This territory from of old was a crossroads for various monks traveling from the East, & from Russia, thus being a source of spiritual enlightenment for the local people. Here many large foreign monasteries had their holdings, or metochia; for example, the Sinai Monastery had the 'Sinaia' next to the King's residence. There were many hesychasts. Hesychasm came from Mt Athos, Blessed Paisius being a leading disseminator of it, and it survived until our times, when, being tested by martyrdom it gave a magnificent harvest, so blinding in its spiritual beauty that the contemporary world, deep in the pollution of sin, is not only powerless to see & sense this unearthly beauty, but is already almost a participant in the rapid liquidation of this reflection of Christ. Here is what we have learned, almost as a secret.

In Romania just before our time, there were some 200 desert recluses in the mountains. They lived in caves & would die there in seclusion; only their bones would remain in the caves with signs: 'Here lived the sinful monk so & so,' and the like. To some of these monks people would bring food from monasteries and would leave it somewhere nearby for them to take. But there were some anchorites whom it was impossible to reach, & they existed by themselves without help from outside.

A certain monk was walking with a guide in these mountains. It was a fiercely cold winter. Suddenly this monk sensed an usual fragrance, as if from flowers blooming. He asked his guide: 'What kind of smell can this be in such frost?' And the guide answered as if it were something quite ordinary: 'This is from some relics. Anchorites used to live in the caves all around here.'

When the persecution of the Church began, many young people came to faith, mostly students, & especially many simple workers. All the prisons were filled with monks & nuns. Out of 6-7000 prisoners there were 2500 monastics. Of these some 500 survived--they dressed in lay clothing & hid themselves among the people.

One catholic priest, who was imprisoned together w/Orthodox monks can testify that as a certain Fr. Gerasim was dying in prison, that his face shown with the light of Mt. Tabor. Another protestant pastor relates the following story: Once they brought into the prison cell an Orthodox Elder-priestmonk, so holy & pure in heart that he was like a child; even the Communists couldn't understand why he'd been arrested. They shoved him in, saying as a sarcastic joke, 'He will confess you!' And everybody rushed to him for confession, not only Orthodox, but also heterodox & Jews, & even Communists themselves. The pastor said that he, moved by some unknown power, confessed to him everything, including shameful things which never in his whole life would he admit. But here everything by itself just poured out of him. And the worse were the things he said, the more did the face of the Elder shine with joy, because the soul of the sinner was being cleansed. He was released, & the whole day everybody, even the guards, were as if holy; but this wasn't for long. The next day everything became worse. The prisoners made a tacit agreement w/the guards: the guards would beat them as they pleased, both w/knives & bayonets, & they would not protest; but in exchange the guards would allow them to pray as much as they wanted to. Priests would serve the Divine Liturgy on the chests of the dying (new martyrs) in place of an antimension. Somehow they managed to obtain wine.

Once into the cell where an Archimandrite (high ranking priest) monk they placed a hardened criminal,who was to torture the monk every day in order to get some information from him--such was their system. But when it became apparent that it was impossible to get information from the monk under any condition, then the order came to torture the criminal to death...In the end both were dying, lying together. The torturer bitterly wept & repented. The Archimandrite was consoling & comforting him, saying: 'If I feel so sorry for you, then how much more should Christ have pity on you.' The monk-martyr confessed him & read the prayer of absolution over him. They both received Holy Communion & both died together."

I just found this entire account moving & profound...it seemed to capture the depth of faith & recent history of the people the best...

Holy martyrs of Romania, pray to God for us!
Justin

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October 17, 2005: The Feast of Parascheva the New of Iasi

I wanted to send a brief update about the feast of Parascheva the New of Iasi, because of its importance to Romanian Orthodoxy and its impression upon me, before I left Romania (on Wednesday) for the Holy Land...
Since I last wrote, Constantin & I attempted to go visit two other aging holy elders, Fr. Teofil Paraian near Brasov in the mountains and Fr. Arsenie Papaciov near Constant on the Black Sea. Unfortunately though, we were unable to meet with either elder. We didn't make it to Brasov due to changing circumstances in our travel requirements, and when we went to Constant, Fr. Arsenie had recently left (assumably for the feast in Iasi). So after getting to see the Black Sea and venerate the relics at the Cathedral in Constant (Sts. Aston, Epictet, Theodosia & Antipas of Romanis, & St. Panteleimon the Unmercenary Healer), we took a train to Iasi for the feast. This area has much to see & pilgrimage to in its own right (which I would like to do when the weather is warmer), many places where the Apostle Andrew did missionary work including his cave & miraculous spring, because this was his "port of entry" to Romania. Also, the first martyrs of Romania are there. The Danube Delta region, situated just north of Constantza also contains the widest variety of flora & fauna in Europe, especially known for fishing & bird watching. Unfortunately the region was closed due to a bird flu alert. This was our second long train trip that day, the first being @ 3-7am, this second one 3-11pm! It was fun and fascinating to see some of Romania this way and experience their train travel (somewhat different than ours, more traditional use of sitting or sleeping rooms in a car, & not as much like the seat arrangements on a bus). It was quite an experience to pilgrimage to the feast this way. We met & shared stories & food with those in our car, as we bonded like a family, to help each other during the 8 hour trip. The journey was full of many unique experiences and moments...Gypsy singing & dancing in the walkways, trying to sell trinkets or food, even though the cars were oversold with many packed in & standing for the entire trip.


Feast of Parascheva the New of Iasi

This is likely the largest annual pilgrimage in all of Orthodoxy averaging 500,000-1M pilgrims each year at the feast, not counting the half million that live in Iasi. This year they expected more because Metropolitan Panteleimon of Greece brought the relics of the Apostle Paul for veneration by the faithful to feast. Most stood in a line that spanned more than 1-2km an average of 12-15 hours to venerate the relics of St. Parascheva (and this year the Apostle Paul as well). Young and old, rich and poor alike come from all over Romania & neighboring countries (even as far away as America...) for the week long festivities. The entire city takes part in the celebration, with live outdoor folk & religious music concerts, booths selling everything from traditional Romanian handicrafts to religious items and food, churches and monasteries teaming with visiting pilgrims, while all of the special services at the cathedral are broadcast on jumbo-trons to the large crowds throughout the cathedral complex with closed circuit TV.


Almost all of the bishops of Romania attend, including the Patriarch of Romania Teoctiste (seated, with Metropolitan Manteleimon of Greece on left and Metropolitan Daniil on right), all of the Metropolitans, and there are always visiting hierarches.

Presentation of Newly Canonized St. Dosoftei of Probata
This year was also special, because a newly canonized saint (June 2005), Dosoftei of Probata, was announced to the people (see photo with icon)The scene was similar to many large city festivals that I've been to in the past, but the atmosphere was completely different. Frivolous revelry or wantonness was replaced with deep feelings of reverence and a sense of community amongst the faithful. I've never been to services overflowing with people where you get to worship outdoors like in Romania. It is difficult at first to maintain focus on prayer, but pretty soon after realizing that prayer is all around you with the people, it becomes easier to commune in prayer even while standing in the middle of the "outside" world. I felt that it also revealed how real and organic the faith of the Romanian people are that they are able to worship God in "all places". I've included some photos during the main Liturgy the day of Parascheva's feast from both inside & outside the cathedral (thanks to a theological student I met while in Iasi). Attending the feast was a wonderful way to conclude my pilgrimage in Romania, going to the cathedral everyday, taking part with the people on one of their most important holy days (for Parascheva is considered the patron & protector of Moldavia), seeing their faith & piety, and spending time with new friends.
You'll hear from me next with an update from the Holy Land. I appreciate all of your thoughts, encouraging words & prayers!
-Justin



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October 10, 2005: Romania's Natural Beauty

Hope you enjoy...I'm so happy to be here at the turning of the leaves!




















Village Life
I have been so blessed to be able to meet and stay in the village with the family of a Romanian priest now living in America. City life is similar to city life almost anywhere now in the western world, of course with its own unique Romanian aspects regarding driving, retail goods available, etc., but it is life in the village that reveals the beauty of the land and of the people! To give you some background about the family, Fr. Viktor is a priest in the village, has two sons (Constantin has been acting as my guide showing me the treasures of their land), mother working in Italy (because good paying jobs are hard to find in Romania right now), and a daughter with her own family living in central Romania. They, like most in the village, have at least a few acres of land with a garden (cabbage, potatoes, onions, garlic, beans, tomatoes, peppers, corn, wheat, & other staples), fruit trees (plum & apple), grape vines, and animals (chickens, pigs, ducks, and many have a cow or horse). Almost every family grows & eats this good natural and organic food, because they've never had the means to "modernize" their agricultural methods...ironic isn't it, that their relative "poverty" has spared their land & their health the ravages of modern ag devastation (petrochemical pollution & land overusage) & the poison via manufactured foods (GMO, etc.). They use the animals to work the land or for transport, and of course for food. The people are so healthy, strong & don't have many of the physical, mental or psychological health problems we tend to confront in the US, whether it be from the stress/pressures of our pace of life or our diet (things aren't perfect here, they have their share of struggles). All families can food for during the off seasons, trade food stuffs with others in the village to round out their diet, make their own wine, liquers, process their own meats, & juices. My allergies have really subsided since coming here, I've slept better & had more energy than in a long time!

Work days start early and end whenever the job is done or the people feel like calling it quites, because most work on their land. They almost never work on Sundays, out of respect for the Day of the Resurrection, except to feed the animals. This is when families & friends usually get together and even small day trips are made to scenic spots for barbeques or visits to Holy Places. The village is like a family, and because I'm staying at the house of the village priest I've seen this almost every day, at any hour when sometime comes calling with a problem or need the benefactor gives whatever they can. There is much peace amongst the people. They are very humble, warm & sincere, lacking in any guile. Constantin told me, of course we're humble people, because outside invaders have humiliated us over the centuries with wars & devastation. Romanians are very hospitable too! Every house we've gone to or relative we've visited, I've been offered food, drink, shower, &/or a place to stay. One peculiarity about driving in Romania, especially through the countryside, is needing to know the common practice for the rules of the road...for example, they don't have strict guidelines or signals at all intersections (which can be rather hazardous in town) or as regimented traffic laws. I've been able to drive some on our tours, which has been fun (actually reminding me of driving video games growing up), having to dodge horse drawn carts, stopped for slow cars, people & oncoming traffic on the narrow roadways.

I could go on & on with more details, but I think you get the picture and I'm sure that you're weary of reading my rambling on...I've included some photos from the farm as well as during a recent service at a neighboring village where Bishop Pimen celebrated the Liturgy for the renovation of the village church. They held the Liturgy outside due (which is common for large gatherings) because of the sheer number of people who attend. I was asked into the altar to take photos (& all of the priests were anxious to get copies)...so maybe I have a budding career as a professional photographer in Romania! : )









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